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Looking to start Modding


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Old 04-15-2017, 04:15 PM
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Looking to start Modding

What's up guys, I'm looking to start adding mods to my 2003 3.2CL Type-S. I'm here to get some guidance on how to start and what mods I should look into first. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
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Old 06-26-2017, 02:49 PM
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Welcome to detskaya-baraholka, and you will love your CL.

I would start off with the following:

Cold Air Intake
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Old 06-26-2017, 02:51 PM
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for me; I would start off with maintenance. it's a 14 year old car! when something goes bad, then upgrade it!
for example; suspension...if your shocks havent been replaced in 14 years, time to go with some sexy coilovers.
brakes- same thing. get some upgraded brakes.
tires- fuck, go for summer tires!!

upgrading the intake doesnt do jack shit, and I would stay away from that mod...only cuz there's no improvements to be made there...unless you go all out with a 4 inch diameter intake
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Old 07-12-2017, 03:22 AM
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Maintenance, add a transmission cooler if auto, after that the order in which I did my mods is as follows;

Blacked out Taillights - I made the red part black and left the top clear, looks awesome and with bright bulbs it still is clear at night. I used rustoleom lense tint and some super expensive clear coat that is still holding up. Take your time if you do anything like this
Painted Bumper - I got color matched paint and painted the black exposed plastic in my bumper silver with a clear coat on top, it looks really nice and has held up well for only light prep
Headers - I bought OBX and they were made at entirely incorrect angles (Seller is bigdawgtuning14 on eBay, they were downright rude and unprofessional) Now I run a mystery set from a 6 speed, assumed eBay but there's no way aren't after a side-by-side quality comparison.
Exhaust - Im running an eBay exhaust for a 2002 accord with the fart cans chopped off with my stock cat, it is 2.5 inches to dual 2.25 and sounds horrible from 2-3k rpm. This plus the headers made a huge difference throughout the rev range.
TB Coolant Bypass- the throttle body stays cool longer and throttle response might have been better, it could be placebo. But this mod was required for the VSA delete anyways.
Brakes - I put on some dual piston calipers from a 1995 legend (I think?) and it stops a lot better. It makes it sort of a boat with breaks as opposed to stock doing nothing but warping rotors and not stopping where I wanted it to.
Cold air Intake - Custom built 4" intake with a K&N filter, seen here --> /forums/second-...e-cl-s-944467/
VSA Throttle Body delete - It helps with throttle response and I think everything just seems to run better when I get on the accelerator when it is gone.
Pulleys - I have what may or may not be a decent underdrive pulley, everything seems ok but they scare me a little still. I did pick up noticeable low end torque and it revs faste
Manifold Spacer - I unfortunately spent the money on the p2r spacer, not sure what I think to be honest. I would go back and use a full size spacer and just cut/adjust the hood if I could. Not sure what it really does, I thought I felt more power from 1.5 to 4k and a little less than before in VTEC
Thermal Gaskets - These are worth it, nothing noticeable at first but when summer comes around both my throttle body and intake manifold almost feel cold when I get off the highway.
Porting/Polishing - I had my runners ported and polished, most noticeable mod since headers/exhaust. I would imagine the giant intake helps boost the gains here.
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Old 07-12-2017, 03:52 AM
I broke what now??

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Over all it has been a great setup, I am not one to race but when a 2012-14ish? mustang with the 5.0 started taunting me several days ago I just opened it up and left him behind. The headers, exhaust, and intake with slight weight reduction already had me breaking a 14 second quarter. Since the pulley, ported runners, everything else, and some more weight reduction I don't know how fast it is and won't until I run at street car takeover assuming they still have a 13 second class.

The only problems I have are if I hit the pedal too hard the engine loses power, flooring it to WOT is bad, I had to learn how fast to mash the pedal to go fast and it makes it a little more fun to drive. This is likely a combo of the under drive pulley and how little restriction the intake gives. The other issue is that I have to reset the ECU a little more often to account for changes in temperature and barometric pressure, if you don't it will start wanting to die when you stop, or it will develop a mini idle surge problem. I believe this is also related to how unrestricted the airflow is as well as the lack of a weight to help keep the crankshaft spinning.
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